You finally pull your monstera out of its pot to have a look. Maybe it's been looking a bit sad. Droopy. Not growing. And there they are: brown, slimy roots that come apart when you touch them.
That's root rot. And it's more common than you think.
The good news is it's not a death sentence. But you do need to understand why it happens before you can fix it for good.
What Root Rot Actually Is
Root rot is exactly what it sounds like. The roots have started to die and decay while still in the pot. Healthy roots are firm and white or pale tan. Rotten roots are soft, brown, and they smell like wet soil that's been sitting for too long.
The roots aren't rotting because you did something terrible. They're rotting because they've been sitting in water for too long, and that kills them.
When roots sit in wet soil without a chance to dry out, they can't get the oxygen they need. They essentially suffocate. And once they're dead, they become food for the fungi and bacteria that live in every bag of potting mix. That's what turns them brown and mushy.
Why This Keeps Happening
Here's the thing most people don't realise: root rot isn't really a watering problem. It's a soil problem.
Standard potting mix is designed to hold moisture. That's fine for a lot of garden plants, but monsteras don't come from regular garden soil. They come from tropical forests, where their roots wrap around rocks and tree bark, exposed to air and quick bursts of rain that drain away fast.
When you put a monstera in dense, moisture-retaining potting mix, the soil around the roots stays wet for days, sometimes longer. You might only water once a week, but if the soil is still damp a week later, that root system never gets to dry out properly.
And in winter, it's even worse. Less light, cooler temperatures, and the plant isn't growing much. The soil dries even slower.
Signs Your Monstera Might Have Root Rot
You don't have to wait until the plant is obviously suffering. Here are some early signs:
The leaves look wrong. Yellowing leaves that start from the outer edges and work inward. Drooping that doesn't recover after watering. Brown spots that feel soft rather than crispy.
The soil smells. Healthy, damp soil has a clean earthy smell. Root rot has a sour, rotten smell. If your pot smells off when you water it, something is breaking down in there.
The soil stays wet forever. Stick your finger into the pot a few centimetres after watering. If it's still soaking wet three or four days later, the soil is too dense.
The plant stops growing. A monstera that's given up putting out new leaves, especially during the growing season, often has root problems.
How to Fix It
You need to repot. There's no shortcut.
Take the plant out of its pot and shake off as much of the old potting mix as you can. Then look at the roots. Anything brown, soft, or mushy needs to come off. Use clean scissors or pruners and cut back to healthy root tissue.
If more than half the roots are rotten, don't panic. Monsteras are tough. They can regrow root systems if you give them the right conditions going forward.
Now here's the important part: don't put it back in the same type of soil.
You want a mix that lets water drain straight through and then dries out within a couple of days. A chunky potting mix with bark pieces works well for monsteras. The bark creates gaps in the mix, so water runs out and air can get in around the roots.
Orchiata orchid bark is a good option to mix in. It's made from aged New Zealand pine bark and holds its shape for years, so it doesn't compress around the roots over time. You can mix it straight through your potting mix to open it up, or use it on its own if your monstera's roots are in bad shape and need maximum drainage.
Choosing the Right Bark Size
Orchiata comes in different sizes, which matters for monsteras. The roots on an adult monstera are thick and strong, so they do well with a chunkier piece of bark.
The Classic grade (6 to 9mm) or Power grade (9 to 12mm) from Orchiata's range works well for most monsteras. Smaller pieces compact more easily over time, and larger pieces can leave too much air space for younger plants with fine roots.
After the Repot
Once you've moved your monstera into fresh, chunkier mix, hold off on watering for a few days. The roots that were just cut need a chance to heal before they're exposed to moisture again.
When you do water, water thoroughly so it runs out the drainage holes, then leave it until the top few centimetres of mix have dried out before watering again. With bark in the mix, this happens much faster than with standard potting mix.
Keep the plant somewhere warm and bright but out of direct sun while it recovers. Don't fertilise for a month or so. Just let it settle.
Preventing It From Happening Again
The single biggest thing you can do is change the soil. Once you've got a chunky, well-draining mix, the chances of root rot drop dramatically.
Beyond that:
Water less often than you think you need to. Check the soil before you water. If it's still damp, wait.
Make sure the pot has drainage holes. This sounds obvious, but pots without holes are the fastest route to root rot there is.
Don't leave the pot sitting in a saucer of water. Empty the saucer after watering.
In winter, water even less. Your monstera isn't growing much, so it's not using much water.
Most monstera owners who struggle with root rot are actually good, caring plant owners who water on a schedule rather than checking whether the soil actually needs it. The fix isn't to care less. It's to give the roots a mix that dries out fast enough that your regular watering habits aren't a problem.
A bag of Orchiata bark mixed through your potting soil can make all the difference. It ships free across Australia, so it's worth trying before you write off another plant to root rot.
